Milngavie is situated just south of a notch, over which the iconic Dumgoyne keeps guard, in the elevate ground that runs from coast to coast on this narrow waist of central Scotland. The Kilpatrick Hills to the west and Campsie Fells to the east. The route sets off north on the West Highland Way initially and climbs through this notch to Burncrooks Reservoir which provides fresh water for north Glasgow. Just beyond the first spectacular vista of Loch Lomond is revealed, which is broad and studded with islands to the south, tapering northwards with square shouldered Ben Lomond looming to its right. The route then switches onto the John Muir Way and follows this down to Balloch Castle and right through boatyards and moorings of Balloch on the southern edge of the Loch.

The route climbs quickly out of Balloch, following a well-walked path over the hill towards Helensburgh. From the top, the first clear views of Argyll are revealed, stetching as far as the eye can see to the south and north with its complex network of sea lochs, fresh water lochs and interspered with island, peninsulas. The route reachs the upper Helensburgh then shoots off to the north through Glen Fruin which links through to the upper reaches of the Gareloch. The primary UK nuclear submarine base can be viewed from the head of the glen and you will find yourself cycling through a slighly unsettling combination of military sites (no drone zone), bunkers and shooting ranges. The continues on the Three Lochs Way, following good forest trail towards Arrochar at the head of Loch Long before dropping down steeply to the town, opposite the rust out shell building on the far side which the map says is the Loch Long Torpedo Range. Above this sits Ben Arthur also known as the Cobbler, which although not a munro is an excellent climb due to the incredible rock formations on the south of the twin summits.

The route then briefly follows the Cobbler path on a zig zag climb until reaching an open forest trail that leads south before climbing up the glen towards the well known Rest and be Thankful pass through to Inverary. The road on the north side is often closed due to land slides but the forest trail on the south side of the glen is a constant climb through mature forest and reaches one of the first high points of the Loop at 400m. The views are more and more open as you climb higher, revealing the first glimpse into the proper mountains of Scotland before veering back down to sea-level. The decent is on main road initially past the high loch and ducks off the main route to run parallel and then through trees until eventually hitting Cairndow on the shores of Loch Fyne. Following the road around the head of the Loch passed the famous Loch Fyne Oyster Restaurant where some of our finest Scottish seafood can be enjoyed, until you pass Inverary Castle and ride into Inverary for the last signficant restocking opportunity for the next 100 miles ahead. Inverary has all the usual local ameneties and it is well advised to load up food and water as the route is scarcely near a shop of any size until Killin over 80 miles away.

The route now potters south along the shores of Loch Fyne, a vital marine habit where it is possible to see seals and if you are lucky otters. The route winds along partial track revealing secluded cottages that look straight onto the loch. At Furnace the route stays with the Wild about Argyll route and climbs up over the thickly forested hills on good double-track to the next in the series of lochs that slice through Argyll, this time Loch Awe, the longest fresh water loch which stretches for over 25 miles. The decent is a thoroughly good ride which offers some stunning vantage points to look north up the full length of the loch to the mountains around Loch Etive where the route ultimately heads. The mood of this narrow loch is ever changing depending on the time of day and weather, but it is often serenely still and surrounded by mist shrouded forests. After tracking the full drop down to the loch it is an easy bimble around the waters edge to Dalavich and then back up the other side where the route increasingly leaves the small road and sticks close the waters edge, eventually passing the point route met the loch on the other side.

At Inverinan the route leaves the loch and climbs into the forest to an excellent hydro road which keeps a fairly level incline directly north to mountains. The geology changes dramatically at the end of Loch Awe from the fairly benign lochs and mulls of Argyll to the huge mountains and glens beginning with the magestic Glen Etive. The track gives way to a road which quickly closes in on Taynuilt which sits at the southern end of Loch Etive where the route will now lead. The wide and fast flowing river Awe is bridged by an old single file wire bridge with a wooden footing, which bounces jauntily at the middle sections whilst the Awe glides by beneath. It feels like the entrance to some wilder and more remote country, which it truly is.

Cycling up the track on the east of the glen above the sea water loch with occasional fish farms, the track is surprisingly good. The reason for this is that in 2020 two new run-of-the-river hyrdo power schemes were built, which although the final result is very low impact environmentally with only a very small dam high up on the feeding rivers, the track has been upgraded to allow some heavier trucks to climb all the way up the glen. This makes for easy biking but on the upper reaches before turning for Glen Kinglass, the crumbling track runs startlingly close to some very high cliff edges which should be ridden with care at day or night. As the 1000m plus Ben Starav towers into view straight ahead, the route turns into Glen Kinglass which runs north east through the most remote parts of the route. Its a gentle but continuous climb in this direction, where you will share the glen with only deer and adventurous hillwalker. Passing the hyrdo schemes the track immediately disappears and becomes a path which is mostly rideable but always interesting, sometimes on grass, others on exposed bare rock slabs and requiring small rivers to be forded fairly regularly. The trememdous isolation, palpable stillness and grandeur of this glen keeps impressing as the climb continues, more and more mountains appear until finally Loch Dochart appears. Cobalt blue and glistening on a clear day or dark and windswept on another, it never disappoints. Marking probably the most remote point in the loop and there is no civilisation visible in any direction, just a 360 degree vista of glens and mountains and it is hard to believe the comforts and conveniences of city life were only a day or two behind on the bike.

After Loch Dochart the route levels out and follows close to the river in a winding grass path which finally meets the old drovers road towards Rannoch moor on the West Highland Way. Turning instead of Inverornan the route stays on the WHW following the short sharp climb up and down to Bridge of Orchy where the hotel serves excellent food and drink.

The route now tracks back down the WHW to the comedically named Auch, where a river bridged and now turn north east up the hydro road and under the grandly architected train bridge which circles across from one side of the glen to the other. The track fords the river more then once and climbing again to the ultimate high point of the entire Loop at 500m to a bealach that gives onto Loch Lyon, a dammed loch which curves through the base of the glen. The track loops entirely around the loch but staying to the north the track gradually winds down towards the wall of the dam. This marks the point at which the route finally turns back towars the start, with a climb up an old broken moor road and rapid decent down into Glenlochay. The ride down the glen to Killin is a delight, fast and through ever more obvious signs of permenant residence, tidy cottages with well tended gardens. The massive snub peaked bulk of Ben Lawers is clearly visible ahead, one Scotlands huge munroes at just under 4000 feet. Killin is a welcome sight, offering a good grocery store and a couple of excellent cafes. The perfect point to pull up the bike and savour the return to civilisation after your self-imposed exile – cake and coffee.

From Killin now the route largely follows the utterly excellent Sustans Route 7 which mostly descends with few climbs all the way down to Callander. Often following a disused railway line, it hugs the hillside and rolls slowly down on dedicated cycleway through the lower lying Trossachs, giving stunning views down Loch Earn and then the shores of Loch Lubnaig. On the upper reaches wild goats, with kids in spring time, can been seen grazing happily on the steep hillsides. Riding such smoothy and easy to navigate ground is a real treat and the miles fly by quickly. Skirting Callander, the route traverses to the south side of Loch Venachar and then gradually winds up through the Queen Elizabeth Forest towards Aberfoyle. Again there is significant change in geography on the final rapid desent down to Aberfoyle, beyond which is more fertile lower lying farmland, leaving the last of the mountains behind.

Only the Campsies loom ahead, with the easily identifiable Dumgoyne once again visible in plain sight. Riding near Gartmore on the Rob Roy Way until just before Drymen where it crosses the WHW again and this takes us straight south on the home straight through the hill notch and the City of Glasgow beyond. The sense of transition from isolated highland glens to these more inhabitted lowlands is a pleasure, highlighting the huge range of grounds covered by the Caledonia Loop. Riding past Dumgoyne, with the Glengoyne Distillery a stones through away to the left there is a final sting in the tail. A climb up through to an escarpment topped with a long dry stane dyke with a double gate. Looking back here for a final glimpse of the mountains we have explored, its on to the cluster of privately owned forest huts of Carbeth and then a final slog up the Red Braes above Craigallion into Mugdock Country Park. Finally turning at the Khyber Car Park the route opens out to reveal all of Glasgow below, to the windfarms on the south and in the very distance the Border Hills which bound this highly populated cluster of cities and towns in cenrtral Scotland. Remnants of WWII artillary emplacement are followed by the heights of Mugdock castle and then a final descent all the way back down the Allander river backup in the Milngavie town centre where it all began.